Back in 2002, I made what turned out to be my last visit to Istanbul. In those days, it was not simply one of the most beautiful and beguiling cities in the world, it was also completely safe. I was staying with an old family friend, and accompanied by someone who is now a fellow writer for the Catholic Herald. One night we called in for drinks after dinner at a beautiful terraced open-air night club that overlooked the Bosphorus. The sight of ships, blazing with light, making their way up and down that narrow channel separating Europe from Asia, was truly spectacular. Alas, that same club was the site of the massacre in the early hours of New Year’s Day. Since my last visit, Istanbul has been the site of numerous such terrorist attacks. It is no longer the place it was.