Trifles are one of my favourite things. Given that I’m often faced with the task of mass catering, trifles are the easiest of puddings. They’re cheap to make, and, with the exception of the lactose intolerant, universally popular. Over the years I’ve experimented with different recipes – changing the sponge, fruit and custard. When we celebrated the Platinum Jubilee in 2022, I of course made the Jubilee trifle, but found it a little lacklustre, especially for the work that had to be put in. It was also alcohol-free. With a few tweaks – replace the St Clement’s jelly with Campari jelly and drench the sponge in Cointreau – the whole thing worked much better.