An hour’s drive from Vienna into Lower Austria brings you to the Wachau, home of Austria’s best vineyards. Among them is a grand estate owned by the Metternich family. Their name was made famous by the early 19th-century statesman who, as schoolboys learn, divided up the map of Europe post-Napoleon.

That founding Metternich was no friend of the liberal arts: he reckoned them subversive and his agents made life difficult for Schubert’s circle, throwing one of them in jail. But his descendants take a more enlightened view. And their estate, called Grafenegg, now hosts a major music festival where concerts happen in an auditorium open to the sky and stars: a magical experience on a summer night.