The northern-hemisphere evenings are drawing in, with autumn upon us. Time, then, for a proper four-course meal, eaten at a table in a room without a television…

Potage Bonne Femme

To start, Potage Bonne Femme (a soup best not translated into English). You’ll need a medium onion, a large leek (or a couple of smaller ones), a large potato, and three or four medium carrots. A couple of pints of good chicken stock for preference or, if needs must, two or three chicken stock cubes dissolved in boiling water. Finely dice all the vegetables, melt a generous knob of butter and gently cook in a large saucepan for about 15 minutes. Next add the stock and bring to the boil, and then simmer for at least half an hour, before checking that everything is well-cooked. Purée the contents of the pan with a hand blender or, better, in a liquidiser. Season to taste, preferably using white pepper rather than black; be careful with the salt if you have used salted butter. A dash of cream might help, as might a little chopped parsley, but neither is strictly necessary.