One of the risks of visiting London is wandering into a restaurant so comprehensively appalling it could have been designed by Gordon Ramsay’s evil twin. Now, you’ll find delicious meals all over that city. But unlike New York, where the quality is more consistent and a truly revolting experience rare, London covers the full spectrum. It’s possible some of the best restaurants in the world are in London … and some of the worst.
Let me give you an idea of the latter. Recently, staying in west London and hungry after a full day of work, I found an Italian restaurant near my hotel. From the street, obscured by outdoor shrubbery, it looked like a charming trattoria. I was ready for a quiet table, a glass of Sangiovese and a plate of simple pasta.
