Our Tabard Inn was La Rosa Negra café. Not exactly a 14th-century inn on the Thames in Southwark, but a neighbourhood bar in Vigo serving albariño wine, crisps and local Galician beer, across the road from our unfashionable travellers' hotel. The evening before we headed off in the morning towards Santiago on our 100km Camino adventure, arriving at the cathedral on the feast of St James (25th July), I sent a WhatsApp message to the Herald's 11-strong pilgrim band of strangers. "There is no hotel bar. Please can we all meet for welcome drinks at the wine bar opposite at 8pm."