I’ve been thumbing through a cookery book by Jonathan Meades, better known as a writer and film-maker on architecture rather than food. As its title suggests, The Plagiarist in the Kitchen is not your everyday cookbook. Its subtitle is “a lifetime’s culinary thefts”, and the author’s principal contention is that “anyone who claims to have invented a dish is delusional, dishonestly contributing to the myth of culinary originality”.

Here, then, are my three plagiarist dishes that Mr Meades failed to include in his collection, all of which involve England's beloved sausage: