***
Take bread. Bread became something different in 1961 when the Chorleywood Bread Process was invented. It was no longer bread as it had been made for thousands of years: cheap, nourishing and delicious. It became a foodstuff that required virtually zero skill to make, but did require high-powered machinery and a bucketful of mysterious additives – some of which do not even have to appear on the label because they’re considered to be destroyed during the baking process. The resulting product – soft and pappy, unsatisfying, lacking any convincing “bread” taste and with a tendency to stick to the roof of your mouth – is what most of us consume. But it doesn’t have to be like that. There are baking companies that “mass-produce” bread using an army of real, skilled bakers. They do not have to rely on high-speed mixers, massive amounts of yeast to puff up the dough quickly, and additives. Their bread is not sold dirt-cheap as a loss leader to get customers into the supermarket. Its realistic cost reflects the far greater time involved in fermenting, proving, shaping and baking the dough. That is a magical process which runs through the Bible like a wheaten thread – and simply cannot be improved on. The loaf that emerges from the ovens of real bakers is something that enhances life. No country with any respect for its food culture would accept the kind of bread that we eat routinely.***
For pure, joyous escapism my wife and I spent much of December watching, for a second time since we first saw it in 2013, the crime series Breaking Bad, set in Albuquerque, New Mexico, about a secondary school science teacher turned methamphetamine manufacturer. There is something strangely relaxing about watching people who are constantly in a state of high stress. They’re more stressed than you are. It is a sort of cognitive therapy. Vince Gilligan, the show’s creator, imbues it with a strong moral undercurrent. One way or another evil does not go unpunished. There is a moment early on when the antihero Walter White admonishes his former pupil and fellow meth cook, Jesse: “No more bloodshed! No violence.” Since they have already dissolved someone in acid so potent that it burns a bloody hole through the floor, Walter probably knows that this is a vain hope. Later, Walter’s wife, Skyler, is terrified, and begging him to admit that he is in danger. He replies: “I am not in danger … I am the danger … A guy opens his door and gets shot, and you think that of me? No. I am the one who knocks.” By then we know he has truly “broken bad”. Andrew M Brown is obituaries editor of the Daily Telegraph









