In store this month are a couple of fish dishes in honour of the patron saint of fishing, St Andrew – better known as the patron saint of Scotland. In the days of yore, when salmon fishing in the Scottish rivers was a popular and productive pursuit, a skilled fisherman could catch three or four big salmon in a day. Sadly, in recent years, salmon stock is rather depleted and fishing is now a matter of “catch and release” (which my husband so disapproves of), so back in the water and not on the table they go. But if you are able to get a wild salmon there is nothing more delicious than a poached salmon with hollandaise and all the trimmings of new potatoes and garden peas. Farmed salmon is readily available in all the supermarkets but it’s no substitute for the real thing.